Big Ideas
- Tennessee’s climate varies from one end of the state to another. Therefore, the ideal landscape species used in each area does, too.
- Disease and insect pressure is high across the state.
- Tennessee is a heavily forested state with great diversity in its trees and shrubs. However, there are some trees that are better than others when planning a landscape planting.
- Selecting ideal plants involves more than just getting the right cultivar. Hands-on evaluation of the plant stock at the garden center is essential to giving your landscape the best start.
Discussion Points
- What factors should you consider when purchasing plants?
- What types of woody plants would you like to have in your landscape?
- Why should we seek out trees that are well-suited to the soil, location, climate, etc.?
- What does it mean to put the right plant in the right place?
Facilitator Notes
- Encourage participants to bring a printed copy of their soil test report next week.
Overview
- Plant Shopping
- In this activity, you will cover the characteristics of ideal plants and use live examples to demonstrate what to look for when shopping.
- UTHort.com demo
- If time allows take a tour of UTHort.com
Instructor Materials:
- Live herbaceous and woody plants for demonstration from a local nursery with varying leaf / root conditions
Activity Goal
- Provide insights into strategic plant shopping.
- Provide key considerations for assessing and selecting plants for purchase.
Agent Prep Videos- not for use during class
These videos will help you prepare to facilitate this activity.
Engage
Ask the group, “When you go plant shopping, what is on your mind?” Let them respond. You’ll likely hear things like species, color, flowers, sun vs shade, etc.Then ask if they consider plant health when shopping.
Explore
Allow the group to examine the plants you have brought in as if they were in the garden center considering buying these plants. After they have examined them, ask them what they noticed. Did they notice any leaf browning? What about the roots?
Explain
Using the demonstration plants, showcase the desired characteristics you should look for when shopping. Use the reference notes listed below if needed.
Elaborate
As you show the ideal characteristics, also mention what a less than ideal example might look like. Additionally, discuss the severity of various issues and the likelihood of overcoming them when a “perfect” plant is not available. E.g. circling roots can be corrected, but rotten ones cannot.
Evaluate
Pose a couple “Would you rather?” questions and discuss.
- E.g. Would you rather purchase a plant with browning leaves or girdled roots?
Look at the Roots
Herbaceous
- Most herbaceous plant roots are white in color.
- Roots of annuals should fill the cell/container.
- If roots are coming out through the bottom of the container, this is a sign that the plant has been growing too long in that container size. You could still purchase but will need to loosen the root balls at planting.
- Perennials that have recently been bumped up into a large container size may not have root growth that fills to the bottom of the container, but as long as root growth looks healthy, you could still consider purchase.
- If the plant pulls easily away/out of the potting media, this could be a sign of root rot.
- If the container media or plant itself smells bad, this is likely a sign of rot.
Woody
- Actively growing (new) roots of woody plants are generally white but can darken as they age.
- Roots should be plump, not dry and flat, or mushy.
- Look for the presence of a root flare at the base of trees. If a flare is absent, this condition might be able to be corrected at planting by removing media and adventitious roots until the flare is exposed.
- Be on the lookout for circling roots in the container, roots protruding from the bottom of a container, and trunk-girdling roots at the surface. If these conditions are found, they should be addressed before planting through root pruning, loosening of the root ball, and removal of circling and girdling roots.
Look at Plant Structure
Herbaceous
- Look for plants with good branching and stout supportive stems.
- Legginess (elongated internodes) can be a sign that plants did not have adequate light during growing, this could be corrected through pruning and increased light, but is not an ideal purchase.
- In some cases, look for buds instead of blooms. Fall Mums are a great example of this principle. They have one primary bloom period and you will get longer enjoyment from them if plants are purchased in bud vs. bloom. Summer annuals that have been pinched to prevent early bloom tend to have a fuller form with more stems, which means more blooms in the long run!
- When planting annuals for seasonal color in the ground, it is recommended to pinch the blooms, which redirects energy from flower formation to root formation and quicker establishment.
- Flowering perennials are naturally more seasonal and have a shorter bloom period than annuals, which will influence whether the plant has buds, blooms, or neither at the time of purchase.
Woody
- Look for plants with good branching, and no long floppy whips.
- Avoid plants that have been tipped or topped.
- Be on the lookout for larger container sizes that have more than 1 plant in them. The plant looks like 1 plant, but when closely inspected we see that there may be 2 or even 3 smaller plants that have been grown together for a quicker sale of a ‘large’ shrub/tree. Those plants will be competing for resources in very close proximity to one another, which often leads to stress and failure of 1 or more of the co-plants.
- Avoid trees that have co-dominant central leaders.
- Look for trees with good lateral branching (uniform spacing between scaffolds and even distribution in the direction of limbs).
- Examine graft unions. The union will naturally have a noticeable bulge where the scion joined to the rootstock, but there should be no major trunk deformations or noticeable changes in the direction of growth. Make sure there is no suckering below the graft union. If present, they should all be removed to prevent vegetative growth from the rootstock from overtaking the grafted portion of the plant.
Look at the Leaves
- There should be little to no signs of disease, evidence of insect feeding.
- Examine plants closely for the presence of actual insect infestation.
- Leaves should be turgid with no signs of wilting.
- Bare lower stems and yellowing or discoloration of leaves can be a sign of the stressful conditions of over OR under-watering.
- In late summer and fall, leaf spotting, mild discoloration, and crispiness of foliage in deciduous woody container plants are not concerning. They will shed those leaves soon and this will not have a bearing on the plant’s health quality next growing season.
Other Tips
- Pull weeds out of containers BEFORE you bring them home. Nurseries that have good plant management practices will have weed-free containers.
- Look for any signs of mechanical damage to the trunk that could have been caused by unloading, or handling.
- Always remember that plants don’t know how to read! Plant tags are created to be suited for a national market. Full sun in the northeast is not the same as full sun in the south. Keep in mind that sizes are plant averages projected usually only to about the 10-year mark. Do your research and pay close attention to hardiness zones as well as final placement in the landscape.
- If a tree was planted too deep, is there anything that can be done to help the tree later on?
- This really depends on how long the tree has been in the ground. If it has been less than a year, you would likely be better off replanting the tree at the correct height—even though this will reset the tree and lead to further “transplant shock”. It is not so simple as to just dig down to the root flare (as you’d be creating a deep bowl that would hold water against that main trunk). There is a service provided by ISA Certified Arborists called “air-spading”, which uses pressurized air to blow the soil away from the main tree trunk, but this does not correct the planting depth. Instead, this practice is more commonly used to remedy girdling roots that have developed in response to being planted too deeply. For most trees that have been planted too deeply (but have been in the ground for a while), you’d be better off leaving them alone (with the understanding that these will be shorter lived trees).
- If we have old trees, and the roots are laying on top of the soil, what is the best way to protect them (from the mower, etc)? Cover them with mulch or soil? Leave them alone?
- Ideally, extending the mulch out to the furthest above ground roots would be a fairly easy fix. I’ve seen many failures with soils being brought in, seeding, (even when using seeding mats), only to find out the roots reappear within a few years. Certainly some species are notorious for surface rooting (e.g., River Birch, Maples, Sycamore), but we also see more prominent surface rooting due to soil compaction, so there-in may be the underlying issue.
- What can you do to help a tree damaged by lawn mower. For example, a tree that is still living but has a large weeping area with missing bark?
- Unfortunately, once the cambium of the tree has been damaged, there are no great corrective actions. Many factors including the tree size, species, vigor, size of the wound and overall stress will impact how well the plant can recover, but generally, the larger the wound, the slower the response time. Unfortunately, by the time we see these wounds try to compartmentalize (i.e., close), wood decay organisms, invertebrates, and the elements are all likely to have invaded, causing rot. Focus in good tree vigor following an injury–proper mulch, supplemental water (as needed), reduce pruning intervals, and consider a soil test (and fertilization if warranted).
- How do I relocate a small/young tree?
- For small trees, my favorite tool to utilize for transplanting purposes is actually a pitchfork rather than a shovel. With a pitchfork, you can go out (depending on the size of the plant) about 10-12″ away from the trunk and insert the tines deeply into the soil, gently lifting as you go around the dripline. Make many small uplifting motions (as you go around the rootzone) instead of just doing a single heavy lift from one side. In essence, you will be creating cracks and fissures in the soil, which can help to retain many of those absorbing roots rather than severing them as would occur with a shovel. Once the entire root ball is loose, simply move to a new site. You’ll be surprised by the number of fibrous roots that will be retained!
- What tree would be best for property that stays wet most of the year?
- Sycamore, River Birch, Sweetbay Magnolia, Overcup Oak, Cherrybark Oak, Freeman Maple, Red Maple, Sweetgum, London Planetree, Swamp White Oak, Nutall Oak, Bur Oak, Willow Oak, Bald Cypress, Sugar Maple, Serviceberry, Poplar, Willow, Hackberry, Hornbeam, Green Ash (EAB susceptible), Black Gum, American Elm.
- What are the top large evergreens for use in screen plantings?
- The top large evergreens that are durable, versatile, and proven to do well in a variety of soils and environmental conditions across the state are listed below:
- ‘Nellie R. Stevens’ Holly (Ilex ‘Nellie R. Stevens’) 20 x 15
- ‘Green Giant’ Arborvitae (Thuja ‘Green Giant’) 50 x 15
- ‘Degroot’s Spire’ Arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis ‘Degroot’s Spire’) 20 x 5
- ‘Sulphurea’ False Cypress (Chamaecyparis pisifera ‘Sulphurea’) 15 x 5
- ‘Boulevard’ False Cypress (Chamaecyparis pisifera ‘Boulevard’) 20 x 15
- ‘Burkii’ Eastern Redcedar (Juniperus virginiana ‘Burkii’)20 x 15
- ‘Brodie’ Eastern Redcedar (Juniperus virginiana ‘Brodie’) 20 x 12
- ‘Taylor’ Eastern Redcedar (Juniperus virginiana ‘Taylor’) 25 x 4
- The top large evergreens that are durable, versatile, and proven to do well in a variety of soils and environmental conditions across the state are listed below:
- What trees and shrubs should be avoided?
- The first plant to avoid is Leyland Cypress, which is prone to canker diseases, bagworms, is top of the list. They grow well as a medium to large evergreen, but most die rapidly based on the problems listed above. The next plant worth avoiding, is Japanese holly. These are cheap and readily available for purchase at local nurseries, however, they are not tolerant of our clay soil types and often succumb to root rot. Next on the list is any of the Hybrid red maple varieties. They have proven to be susceptible to girdling roots, sunscald, freeze injury, and wood boring insects. Other plants to avoid include flowering cherry trees, laurels, pin and willow oak, knock out roses, non-native azalea, and euonymus. All of these forementioned plants are susceptible to wide range of diseases and insect pests and should be avoided.
- What woody plants are suitable host plants for lepidoptera (butterflies/moths) species?
- The top of the list is any oak species. They are the top host plant for butterfly and moth species, hosting over 500 potential species. Other excellent host trees include willow, black cherry, elm, and hickory.
- What are good deciduous tree species are best suited for compacted clay soil sites?
- Several excellent shade tree options for compacted soils are listed below:
- Swamp White Oak (‘Quercus bicolor’) 100 x 75
- White Oak (‘Quercus alba’) 100 x 75
- Japanese Zelkova (Zelkova serrata spp.) 70 x 50
- Lacebark Elm (Ulmus parvifolia spp.) 50 x 40
- American Smoketree (Cotinus obovatus) 25 x 20
- Dwarf Chinquapin Oak (Quercus prinoides) 20 x 15
- Several excellent shade tree options for compacted soils are listed below:
- What are the good native blooming trees and shrubs suited for use in Tennessee landscapes?
- Several excellent blooming plants suited for use in a variety of Tennessee landscape include:
- Red Buckeye (Aesculus pavia) 20 x 15
- Paw Paw (Asimina triloba) 25 x 20
- Fringe Tree (Chionanthus virginicus) 25 x 20
- Staghorn Sumac (Rhus typhina) 20 x15
- Elderberry (Sambucus canadensis) 12 x 10
- Silky Dogwood (Cornus amomum) 12 x 10
- Ninebark (Physocarpus opulifolius) 8 x 8
- New Jersey Tea (Ceanothus americanus) 3 x 5
- Shrubby St. John’s Wort (Hypericum prolificum) 5 x 4
- Several excellent blooming plants suited for use in a variety of Tennessee landscape include: